Thursday 16 / January / 2025
Muscat: “One cannot think well, love well, and sleep well if one has not dined well.” Virginia Woolf’s timeless words resonate deeply with me, and I believe they capture the soul of every epicurean adventure.
For someone who lives to explore new flavours, the idea of authentic Peruvian cuisine has always been tantalising.
But instead of embarking on an 18-hour journey to Peru, COYA Muscat, nestled in The St. Regis Al Mouj Muscat Resort, offers an equally immersive experience - a true taste of the Incan land, right here in Oman. From the moment I entered COYA Muscat, I knew I was in for something special.
Greeted with a cheerful “Welcome to Paradise” by their elegantly poised staff, I was immediately transported into a realm where food meets artistry and culture. The setting was a feast for the senses, with its vibrant Latin American-inspired décor, bespoke hand-carved furnishings, and curated Peruvian trinkets.
The restaurant’s semi-outdoor seating was perfect for basking in the cool Muscat breeze while embarking on my culinary journey.
A cultural and culinary celebration
COYA Muscat isn’t just a restaurant; it’s an experience. Under the stewardship of Mohammed Simo Bennani, the general manager, and the culinary genius of executive chef Dhharram Rana, the restaurant seamlessly weaves together art, music, and food.
Known for his innovative approach to tropical ingredients and immersive dining experiences across the globe, Bennani had transformed a section of the ground floor of the The St. Regis Al Mouj Muscat Resort into a vibrant setting reflecting Latin American culture — an experience designed to take us on a unique culinary journey.
Be it the art or the music, COYA Muscat took us on a multi-sensory journey from the moment we walked in. Every element celebrates Peru’s multicultural heritage, blending indigenous flavours with Japanese, Chinese, and Spanish influences.
Our welcome drink showered a plethora of historical and mythological extravaganza through their names.
I began my adventure with a trio of signature non-alcoholic drinks: The Eyes of Inti, Inca’s Rage, and Purple Rain.
Each sip carried zesty, exotic flavours that lingered on my palate like a beautiful memory.
While I was familiar with Peru’s rich Incan history, my knowledge of its cuisine was limited. That changed the moment I tasted COYA’s six-course menu, which brought Peruvian traditions to life, enhanced by global techniques and Chef Rana’s unique flair.
The Peruvian menu beautifully reflects the influence of its indigenous roots - particularly the Incas - while honouring the culinary traditions brought by European, Asian, and African immigrants. These diverse influences, combined with Peru’s abundant native ingredients, have created a cuisine that is both rich in history and globally celebrated.
At the heart of Peruvian gastronomy are four major staples that define its unique character: exotic purple corn, an astonishing variety of over 3,000 types of potatoes and tubers, vibrant chillies, and nutrient-rich quinoa. Together with rice, wheat, and a diverse range of meats, these ingredients form the backbone of Peru’s culinary identity.
A journey through flavours The meal began with Ceviche Clásico, a quintessential Peruvian dish of raw fish marinated in citrus juices. Its tangy, fresh flavours were the perfect prelude to what followed.
The Atun Chifa Ceviche, with yellowfin tuna, soy, sesame seeds, and rice crackers, was a delightful twist on the classic, while the Pargo a la Trufa (red snapper with truffle, ponzu, and chives) and Lubina Clásica (sea bass with sweet potato, red onion, and choclo) elevated seafood to an art form.
Shellfish lovers are in for a treat with the Camarones (tiger prawns with miso, shiso chimichurri, quinoa furikake, and ají amarillo) and the Ceviche Mixto. The latter, a mix of scallops, octopus, calamari, and Peruvian ground cherry leche de tigre, is an explosion of textures and flavours that will leave you craving more.
As a meat lover, I couldn’t resist the grilled Wagyu Sirloin. Cooked to perfection, it had a subtle charcoal bitterness that complemented its melt-in-the-mouth tenderness.
For vegetarians and vegans, the Alcachofas (baby artichoke with apple, miso, shiso, and pumpkin seeds) and Tomate de Verano (summer tomatoes with compressed watermelon, wakame, sunflower seeds, and ají panca) showcase the creativity and inclusivity of COYA’s menu.
The sweet symphony I usually approach dessert with caution, but COYA’s offerings were impossible to resist.
The Mouse de Praline, with praline mousse, passion fruit, white chocolate ice cream, and popping candy, was a symphony of flavours and textures.
And the Churros de Naranja, made with orange and lime churros, milk chocolate, and Dulce de Lychee sauce, was the perfect sweet goodbye to this incredible journey.
A love letter to Peruvian cuisine
Beyond the flavours, COYA Muscat tells a story - a story of Peru’s multicultural evolution. From the indigenous influence of the Incas to the culinary imprints of European, Asian, and African immigrants, each dish celebrates Peru’s unique history and the tropical ingredients that define its cuisine.
My three-hour brunch at COYA Muscat was a revelation. Each course deepened my appreciation for Peruvian flavours, culture, and heritage. It’s a culinary affair I’m not ready to end.
As I plan my dream trip to Machu Picchu, I’m certain that COYA Muscat will remain my go-to for indulging in the spirit of Peru. And when I return from the land of Inti, I’ll be back for another taste of this extraordinary escape.
