Monday 23 / December / 2024
When I think of Salalah, I fondly remember roadside grilled chicken being served by Dhofari women in colourful, floral dishdasha. I think of camel cooked on hot wadi stones in a local preparation known as muthbi and the curtains of beef air-drying in ramshackle shops lining the street that leads out of “town” into the mountains. I think of the foggy hills carpeted with lush greenery during khareef, and the spectacular cliffs overlooking the tropical teal of the teaming Indian Ocean below. I think of the old souq and the ladies there in frilly black abayas and niqabs, their perfectly lined eyes enhanced by their coverings. I think of herds of camels and cows wandering through the streets and I sigh at the thought of the fresh coconut and banana stands. And then I think of my accommodations. Going to the wilds of Dhofar is an adventure, and usually adventure comes with its fair share of hardship or “roughing it” as we call it in America. It can be part of the fun. So I didn’t hold it against the destination that most of my stays had involved camping, staying in run down apartment hotels, and, even in the more up-market properties in town, dealing with the inevitable wear and tear of ageing they all seemed to suffer from. Maybe that’s why I’ve never thought to head south any other time of the year besides khareef. I didn’t savour the idea of “roughing it” in that sleepy city in its even sleepier off-season. But apparently that aspect of the Salalah experience is changing, with the opening of new, luxury resorts over the last couple of years, and many openings on the horizon. Or so I’d heard. Last Thursday I rushed out of the office, nervously watching the rain splash on the pools of floodwater that still remained from the torrential downpour the day before. I was scheduled to go check out the new Rotana Salalah Resort, and I had a plane to catch. Part of me felt that I’d be less than heartbroken if my flight was cancelled. Sure I had hopes for the property; the pictures looked fabulous. But it was Salalah. People don’t go to Salalah for luxurious stays, they go for the cool weather in the dead of summer, they go to see the wildlife, maybe they even go to bring back bags of the local speciality, frankincense, but to stay at a luxury resort? I didn’t think so. And the fact that the Salalah Rotana has a staggering 400 rooms, making up nearly half of the entire room inventory for the city, added to my concern about the quality. Usually mass market means “the cheaper the better” when it comes to building and operating costs. And anyways, why bother providing world-class accommodations, when the local market doesn’t demand it? Damp with rain and plagued by my concerns, I arrived to the airport. My flight was right on time. Two hours later I landed in Dhofar and after a twenty-minute ride from the new Salalah airport, the softly lit palm trees and classic, arabesque white of the resort rose out of the darkness, providing my first glimpse of the so-called “Jewel of Arabia”. A buggy was waiting to drive me to my premium ocean front suite. As we drove along the venetian-style, man-made canals amidst softly flickering lanterns and glowing palms, I learned that each structure houses a combination of classic rooms, generously sized at 43-square metres; slightly larger deluxe rooms and suites; and premium rooms and suites that feature two bathrooms. Some blocks overlook the canal and manicured walkways, while others open directly onto the beach front lawns. We pulled up in front of the 700 Block and I followed the concierge to a heavy, carved wood door. Inside, a foyer led to the guest bathroom and then to the sitting room, where a platter of fresh Salalah fruit was laid out. Just beyond the sitting room was an outdoor majlis, which also connected back to the master bedroom. The space was striking, with a massive, plush bed set on a carved stone base; a vaulted, red clay ceiling; a Moroccan-style window box overlooking the sea; and a bathroom with the largest soaker tub I’ve seen in Oman, in addition to the usual niceties like a rain shower and double vanities stocked with premium French toiletries from L’Occitane. I walked around the suite, which was around 90-square metres, a few times, taking it all in. The architectural details looked as though they were classic Arabesque made modern, rather than the more typical Western modern-style infused with Arabesque touches. From the intricately carved wooden details to the understated, deep purple accents, to the pointed arches and dramatic red clay ceiling, there was a perfect cohesion in the space thanks to someone’s keen eye for the details and, in no small part, thanks to the extremely high-end finishes. From the expertly selected furnishings to the hand-set stone flooring to the generous, meandering use of space, it was obvious that this was not a cheap, quick project — this was a world-class luxury resort. I gleefully sprawled out on the bed and ordered room service, which I enjoyed on the spacious terrace. Despite near tropical humidity, the balmy weather was pleasant, and with the sound of the crashing waves as a sound track, I felt it was a picture perfect start to the weekend. The next morning, the resort revealed itself in all its glory. After ordering coffee and pastries, I wandered out onto the terrace and was surprised to see that the sprawling 8.2 kilometre beach front began mere steps away from where I stood, just on the other side of a perfectly manicured lawn and walking path. The lounges set under wide wooden umbrellas were calling my name. But there were so many options to choose from: Dolphin watching tours or excursions into the surrounding Dhofar coastal and mountain areas to see frankincense trees, the Mughsail geysers, the souq, and historic ruins with local guides selected and arranged by the Rotana staff. I was keen to have a few laps in the Olympic-size swimming pool or to try my hand at tennis with one of the pros, or maybe to head to the spa for the signature aromatherapy-acupressure massage treatment. I was craving roadside muthbi, fresh baby bananas, and coconut water, but I was also tempted to try The Beach Restaurant and the eastern fusion, Silk Road. Over the course of the weekend, I discovered that the wintertime cliffs of Salalah, though now slate grey and beige rather than green, make an equally stunning backdrop for the crashing, pale blue Indian Ocean waves. The roadside coconuts and bananas are actually sweeter now than during khareef, and the quiet streets are still ripe for adventure and discovery. On the Rotana property, I was surprised to find the best quality steak I’ve had in Oman, with American USDA sirloins served classically char-grilled alongside potatoes and steamed vegetables as well as atop Asian-inspired salads. The seafood, freshly caught right there in Dhofar, was used inventively in delicious, crispy fish tacos topped with lime, red onion, avocado, cilantro, and pickled beets at The Beach Restaurant, while the premium, sashimi-grade catch was used for everything from Arabic-style grilled fish at Saffron to sushi rolls at Silk Road. On my last afternoon, I lounged on the beach, enjoying the feeling of the hot sun and the cool, moist air blowing around me. I looked around at the groves of palms, at the thatched roof shades peppering the sand, and back at the lovely white exterior of the palace-like property behind me. I listened to the pleasant, odd menagerie of German, Russian, and Arabic voices and children laughing against the pulse of the waves. In that moment I realised that I felt as far away from my daily routine as if I were on a remote island in Southeast Asia. I was a world apart, but without the underlying dread of a full-day flight waiting to take me back to reality. I marvelled that a tropical paradise like this had been waiting for me less than two-hours south of Muscat, since 2014. This resort is a place that is blissfully off the radar, where the details matter so much, from the design to the service, that I can forget about them entirely. It represents a new side of Salalah, one of sophistication and luxury that somehow fits right in with the city’s casual, natural vibe. I’ll still come to Salalah during khareef for outdoor adventures, but I no longer plan on roughing it. Plan Your Escape GET THERE • Fly There are several daily 1 hour 45 minute, nonstop flights available on Oman Air. Book online at omanair.com or call +968 2453 1111 • Drive from Muscat to Salalah via Nizwa through the very flat desert of Wusta on route 31 (9-10 hours) or take the scenic route along the windy coastal road via Duqm and Mirbat (12-13 hours). STAY Salalah Rotana Resort Rotana.com/salalahrotanaresort +968 2327 5700 [email protected] Check online for special rates and packages, as there are some amazing offering inclusive of airport transfers, spa treatments, excursions, and meals. The ocean front premium suites are truly something special, but all the accommodations are equally well equipped, and the ocean is moments away from any room on the property. Weekday rates for classic rooms start around OMR55 per night and two-bedroom premium ocean front suites starting around OMR155. EAT • Fresh coconut and fruit at roadside stands. • Camel muthbi at the restaurant in the village adjacent to the Mughsail blowhole. • Steak, in any iteration, at the Rotana Resort. • Seafood at Rotana in the form of fish tacos at The Beach restaurant and sushi at Silk Road. • Even more fresh, local fruit and excellent coffee on your terrace or balcony. DO • Buy frankincense, available in excellent quality at much lower prices than in Muscat at the Salalah souq. • Book a dolphin watching trip or scuba diving excursion through the resort • Ask the concierge to book a local guide to show you the ins and outs of Dhofar. • Nap on the beach and enjoy doing nothing at all. —[email protected]
